after the wave

by Karoli on October 2, 2008 · 101 comments

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I’m trying to put myself back on track after being a little rattled by death notices and ghosts of the past. It’s a challenge sometimes to remember that now matters more than yesterday and the future is determined by what I do today. In the meantime, I’ll give you pretty pictures.

{ 101 comments… read them below or add one }

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There is a group of about 2000 to 3000 people who live off the coast of Thailand, Myanmar and Malaysia around the Surin Islands (a national park). They are known as the Moken, sometimes referred to as Sea Gypsies because they are sea dwellers and spend a great deal of time on the sea. Their language appears unrelated to any other, and their real origin is unknown. Some experts believe they were the first inhabitants of these coastal regions, known as the Andaman. This nomadic sea culture most likely migrated from southern China some 4,000 years ago and, moving through Malaysia, eventually split off from other migrant groups in the late 17th century, however the exact history of their existence is not known.Because of the Moken life on the sea, they have become excellent fisherman and extremely knowledgeable about the sea around them. If a man wants to have fish for breakfast, he goes out and catches a fish with a spear and it would take him no time at all. Studies done by Swedish scientist Anna Gisl have shown that they can see twice as well underwater compared to European peoples, however their vision outside of the water seems no different. Gisl learned the Moken underwater super sight was created by constricting their pupils, which sharpens their focus. To discover if this was a learned or genetic behavior, Gisl has been training Swedish children to do the same. Within four to six months, they picked up the skill, and after their pupils automatically constricted whenever they touched water, giving rise to the skill is mostly learned. Brian Handwork from National Geographic reported that they can swim to depths as far as 75 feet down without any scuba gear or life support. They also have an amazing talent of lowering their heart rate, can stay underwater twice as long.The main threat now to the culture is the Burmese coming from the mainland to fish and create a center of living for themselves. More recently, the Moken have been threatened by notices from the government that their land was going to be taken and they would have to leave immediately. This started happening right after coming home after the tsunami hit. The government offered them permanent housing on the mainland, but they refused and went back to their home to rebuild. According to Akom Samas, a leader of the tribe, he said, local government agency claimed our land they said they needed to build a hospital. We rejected this and started rebuilding. Certainly there are some greedy people trying to benefit from our misfortune. We’ve been intimated and threatened by private investors and by land speculators. A settlement has been reached between the two, leaving over one third was taken for development. Currently the Moken have a 5 year lease on the land. The government recently gave them new fishing boats, however, because of the devastation, they remain idle and unused. Sea gypsies are not only struggling to maintain their sense of culture, but their very existence as well. Yet, they do not seemed to be entirely worried by all of this because is not apart of their vocabulary.It is December 26, 2004. Several elders from the Moken tribe, a small community of sea gypsies from the Surin islands Marine National Park off the coast of Phang Nga Province, Thailand, notice that the sea is churned up and moving in an unusual way. They raise the alarm. Most of the inhabitants rush to take refuge further inland. When they return, the village has been entirely swept away by La Boon, as the Moken call the tsunami that devastated the region.Their boats and houses mounted on piles have been reduced to a heap of wood and debris. But while Thailand mourns more than 5,000 victims, the Moken community was spared. The elders knowledge of the sea saved their lives. And ever since, their story has spread around the world. They have settled in a forest, further from the sea, and therefore a presumably safer but certainly not more advantageous site. The new village is less sanitary and has poor ventilation and a cramped design. Of most concern, the visibility of the Moken natural environment, the sea, is substantially reduced.The influence of the outside world is growing all the time. A number of them have already abandoned fishing to work as diving guides for tourists or garbage collectors. Their main food is fish, turtle, sharks and shells. (5) During low tide they collect sea cucumbers, and catch eels. At high tide, they dive for shellfish. Whatever they need is usually on or under the water. For a good nine months out of they year they are on boats on the sea searching for food. The sociopolitical system could be a chiefdom, but more likely they are just tribes. When one Moken family member leaves to another community, they never say goodbye. Why is this? Well there is no word for or in the Moken language. Other words missing for the Moken language is they have no understanding of time, or If one sits on another man boat, and the owner was going to go out and fish, he would wait for the man to finish sitting because he has no sense of time, no really need to get anywhere in a hurry.Gender Roles and StatusWhat is interesting is the word to harpoon a turtle is very close to the word when taking a woman. However, it must also be noted that the turtle is revered as one of the most sacred animals. It could be said that the Moken men see their woman as sacred as well. Everyone helps one another; no one thinks themselves higher than another. Everyone is equal. People come and go as they please, from one tribe to another. Each tribe is accepting and even with strangers, are peaceful and welcoming peoples.Marital Customs and Living ArrangementsThe Moken are known as Sea Gypsies or Men of the Sea because they live on the sea most of their lives in boats known as kabang. They are small and hand built, sea flotillas that hold everything. It is very important to them because it represents the human body; this is where they live and sleep and give birth. Boat is well organized. There are many children during these times, but their playground is the sea. The only form of swimming equipment they use is goggles. Originally they used to be made out of wood, but now they are made out of plastic since they trade with mainland Burma. On these boats, each holds one family, usually of three generations. Mostly what they catch is for themselves, but whatever else they do, they sell it to the markets. Their thatched roofs of the boats are often covered with fish, sea cucumbers, squid and other sea produce being dried for market.During monsoon season, which is from June to October, each tribe heads back to their island build additional boats while occupying temporary huts. It is a complete change from living on the sea. They will have a ceremony to celebrate their life on land the first days they settle there again. In hunter and gatherer societies, animism often means the human being is often equal with nature and not above it; respect for nature and everything around them is imperative. There were even some who were at sea during the tsunami, and still survived. However, since the tsunami disaster of 2004, some refugee Sea Gypsy women and girls likely have ended up in prostitution in Thailand’s thriving and notorious port brothels.What is strange, in all the articles and information I found on the Moken culture, the one that completely a skewed the culture and who the people were was the New Yorker article written by Eliza Griswold. According to her there were only a couple hundred of these people left and that the people had no folklore of the wave whatsoever, but instead just saw the wave and ran. Diversity is a struggle with the people of this world now; soon the world will become monotonous. The Moken are one of the last of the sea people to exist and it be a great loss if they are lostThe Moklen are a group of sea gypsies or “Chao Lay” which receive the least attention from the media and public. This is because their villages are located in the areas not frequented by tourists. So while their counterparts, the Urak Lawoi and the Moken have been mentioned time and again because their homes Phuket, Lanta, and Lipeh islands for the former and Surin islands for the latter are popular tourist destinations, the Moklen are mentioned simply as a subset of “Chao Lay” or “Thai Mai” (“new Thais” a Thai term refers to the Urak Lawoi and the Moklen, most of whom have already adopted sendentary life and acquired Thai citizenship). Moklen children receive a formal education in the local schools where the instruction is conducted in standard Thai language. Most of them no longer speak Moklen language but they still understand it when their parents or their grandparents converse.Most of the Moklen villages are found in Phang nga Province on the west coast of Thailand. They are scattered in the District of Khuraburi, Takuapa, and Thaimuang.Sean Waltman

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